Photoshop Becker Binocular Buying Guide
Despite their popularity, the functionality of binoculars, the factors that make one better (or different) than another, and what all the numbers mean remain quite mysterious to many buyers. Read on to discover everything you need to know about the ubiquitous binocular before making your choice, so you can be confident that you’re selecting the right binoculars for what you want to observe.
The Basics
In simple terms: Binoculars use a series of lenses, elements, and prisms to produce a magnified view of distant people, places, or things. Using two parallel optical tubes allows you to observe with both eyes, which is more comfortable and natural than using a spotting scope or telescope, where you have to keep one eye closed. Additionally, depth of field is maintained with open eyes, providing a rich and immersive experience that gives the scene a lifelike 3-D appearance.
When shopping for binoculars, you’ll notice some appear very sleek, while others are bulkier. This is due to the type of prism used, which determines the appearance and size of the binoculars. Prisms are used to correct the horizontal and vertical orientation of the view, so the scene appears natural; without a prism, the binoculars would invert and flip the view. There are two main types of prisms: roof and Porro prisms. The glass elements in a roof prism are aligned in a straight line, making roof prism binoculars more streamlined and easier to hold. In Porro prisms, the glass elements are offset, which, compared to similar roof prism models, can offer greater depth of field and a wider field of view. This is achieved by folding the light path, shortening the length, and spreading the lenses farther apart.
There can be a wide price range among seemingly similar binoculars. For example, Photoshop Becker sells binoculars ranging in price from less than 80 Euros to nearly 2,000 Euros. The main reasons for such a wide price range are the quality of the optics, the types of coatings applied to the lenses, and additional features like housing material. Additionally, the prism type can (and often does) factor into the price. Due to the physical requirements in designing and manufacturing the compact roof prism form factor, you may find a roof and a Porro binocular that appear identical in quality and performance, yet the roof prism version costs more than the Porro binocular. The good news is that if form factor isn’t a concern, many people find that they can improve their binocular quality by choosing a Porro prism without stretching their budget.
Technically, the type of prism used in binoculars is a double Porro prism, but it’s always shortened to "Porro." It’s also always capitalized because it’s the last name of the inventor, Ignazio Porro, who designed this prism system around 1850. This basic prism configuration is defined by the folded light path, shifting the point where light enters and exits the prism, giving the familiar look of a "traditional" or "old-fashioned" binocular.
The term "roof prism" was originally used for the Abbe-Koenig (AK) prism design, which corrects an image horizontally and vertically, maintaining a straight line from the point where light enters the prism to where it exits. While the AK prism configuration is the most common, there are others that are variations of the original AK roof prism, such as the Amici and Schmidt-Pechan (SP). Though they serve the same basic function, the optical paths take different routes to correct image orientation. The main advantage of the SP design is that it’s more compact than the Amici and AK prisms, resulting in thinner optical tubes, making them easier to handle, especially for prolonged observation. Zeiss is known for using SP prisms.
Profi-Tipp: Da Porro-Prismen-Ferngläser oft kostengünstiger herzustellen sind als Dachkantprismen, können Sie häufig ein hochwertigeres und größeres Porro-Modell zum gleichen Preis wie ein vergleichbares Dachkantprisma finden.
Fernglas-Glossar: Wichtige Begriffe
Vergrößerung und Objektivdurchmesser Alle Ferngläser haben eine Bezeichnung wie 10x42 oder 7x20, die die Vergrößerung und den Objektivdurchmesser angibt. Zum Beispiel bedeutet 10x42 eine 10-fache Vergrößerung, sodass das Bild zehnmal näher erscheint als ohne Fernglas. In der Regel sind 7- bis 10-fache Vergrößerungen ausreichend. Theaterbesucher könnten 3-5x bevorzugen, Sportfans finden 7x oft ideal, und für die Jagd eignen sich Ferngläser mit 10x oder höherer Vergrößerung. Bei Ferngläsern über 10x42 kann ein Stativ sinnvoll sein, da sie schwer länger ruhig zu halten sind.
Höhere Vergrößerung reduziert das Sichtfeld
Die Zahl „42“ in unserem 10x42-Fernglas bezieht sich auf den Durchmesser des Objektivs in Millimetern. Große Objektive lassen mehr Licht herein und bieten daher hellere, schärfere Bilder, erhöhen jedoch auch das Gewicht des Fernglases. Beim Kauf sind daher Größe und Gewicht zu berücksichtigen, da größere Objektive schwerer und sperriger sind.
Zoom-Ferngläser bieten eine variable Vergrößerung, wie z.B. 10-30x60. Hier liegt die Vergrößerung zwischen 10-fach und 30-fach. Ein Hebel oder Rad erlaubt die Anpassung der Vergrößerung, ohne den Griff oder die Position zu ändern. Bedenken Sie jedoch, dass bei höherer Vergrößerung Helligkeit und Schärfe beeinträchtigt werden können.
Austrittspupille Die Austrittspupille bezeichnet die Größe des fokussierten Lichts, das das Auge erreicht. Sie ergibt sich aus dem Verhältnis von Objektivdurchmesser zu Vergrößerung: Ein 10x42-Fernglas hat z.B. eine Austrittspupille von 4,2 mm. Eine zu kleine Austrittspupille kann das Bild einschränken und das Sehen erschweren. Bei älteren Nutzern ist eine größere Austrittspupille vorteilhafter, da die Pupillenerweiterung im Alter abnimmt.
Zoom-Ferngläser können bei niedriger Vergrößerung eine akzeptable Austrittspupille haben, aber bei hoher Vergrößerung kleiner werden. Ein 10-30x60-Modell hat etwa 6 mm bei 10x, aber nur 2 mm bei 30x.
Die Austrittspupille sollte größer als die Pupillenerweiterung sein.
Profi-Tipp: Jäger, Vogelbeobachter und Astronomen sollten auf eine Vergrößerung von 8x und darunter sowie auf Objektive über 50mm setzen, um eine breite Austrittspupille zu erzielen, wie z.B. bei einem 8x56-Fernglas. Dies verbessert die Sicht bei schwachem Licht und verhindert bei Booten das Gefühl von Desorientierung durch eine stabile Austrittspupille.
Augenentlastung Der Augenabstand ist der optimale Abstand zwischen Okular und Auge, der das Licht durch das Okular fokussiert. Augenmuscheln an den Okularen sorgen für eine bequeme Positionierung. Brillenträger sollten auf verstellbare Augenmuscheln achten, die sich je nach Abstand justieren lassen. Eine größere Augenentlastung bedeutet oft ein kleineres Sichtfeld, was bei Brillenträgern wichtig sein kann.
Glas, Prismen und Beschichtung
Glas Die Qualität des für die Linsen und Prismen verwendeten Glases ist entscheidend. Minderwertiges Glas kann das Licht schlecht brechen, was zu Verzerrungen führt. Spezielles ED- oder LD-Glas (Extra-Low-Dispersion) sorgt für klare und farbtreue Bilder und vermindert Verzerrungen.
Öko-Glas wird ohne Blei oder Arsen hergestellt und ist umweltfreundlicher, falls das Fernglas entsorgt werden muss.
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BAK4, BK7, and SK15 Prisms The discussion in the introductory sections addressed the two main types of prism configurations, but the materials from which prisms are made also have a major impact on image quality. BAK4, or barium crown glass, is considered the best type of prism material. It has a high refractive index and a lower critical angle than other materials, meaning it transmits light better and loses less light through internal reflections, such as those caused by internal bubbles captured during manufacturing.
BK7 glass is perhaps the most commonly used material for binoculars. While it may be of slightly lower quality than BAK4, it is still optical glass, meaning it has excellent light transmission properties and a limited number of internal imperfections.
The easiest way to tell if your binoculars use BAK4 or BK7 is to turn them over, hold them 15 to 20 cm away from you, look at the lens, and observe the exit pupil. If you see an angled edge against the general roundness of the image, the binoculars have BK7 prisms. BAK4 prisms show a rounder exit pupil, leading to better light transmission and edge sharpness. SK15 glass is an atypical material that strikes a middle ground between the two. It has a higher refractive index than both, but its dispersion (measured on the Abbe scale) falls between BAK4 and BK7. Images seen through SK15 prisms are very clear and high in contrast.
Coatings
Lens Coatings Lens coatings are films applied to lens surfaces to reduce glare and reflections, increase light transmission and contrast, and help colors appear more vibrant. Any reflected light is light that never reaches the viewer's eyes, so eliminating reflections results in a brighter and sharper image. Coatings are generally beneficial, provided they have a significant effect. It's easy to apply a cheap coating to a lens to give it a cool-looking orange tint, but the coating may not actually improve image quality. If you’re unable to test binoculars before purchase, it's best to research the brand, look up user reviews, and ask questions before buying. Terms like coated, multi-coated, and fully multi-coated refer to the location and type of coating techniques used. Coated lenses are the most basic, meaning at least one lens surface has at least one coating layer. Multi-coated means multiple surfaces are coated and/or multiple layers of coatings have been applied to each surface. Fully multi-coated means that multiple layers have been applied to all surfaces, inside and out. This treatment provides the highest levels of light transmission, clarity, contrast, and color reproduction. The top tier is broadband fully multi-coated. These coatings are designed to work effectively over a broad spectrum of wavelengths, delivering the best performance.
Prism Coatings Complementary to lens coatings are prism coatings, which enhance light reflection and improve image brightness and contrast. While many manufacturers use standard reflective coatings, the top tier of prism coatings is called dielectric coatings, which transmit almost 100% of the light through the prism, resulting in brighter, more contrast-rich images.
Another type of prism coating, used only in roof prisms, is known as "phase-correcting" coating. Due to the way roof prisms reflect light, it is split into two separate beams after passing through the objective lens, traveling independently through the prism system. The beams undergo a "phase shift" when one beam reaches the eyepiece lens a fraction of a second before the second beam. When the two beams are recombined in the eyepiece lens, they are slightly out of phase with each other, which can affect color balance and color reproduction. By applying special coatings to the prism, the faster beam is slowed down to match the slower beam, bringing them back in phase when they meet at the eyepiece lens—significantly improving color, clarity, and contrast compared to non-phase-corrected prism binoculars. Under normal circumstances, most users won’t notice the difference, but professional users and avid bird watchers may need it to recognize important details from a distance or in challenging light. Since Porro prisms don’t suffer from phase shift, these coatings are not used for them.
Angle of View and Field of View
The terms "angle of view" and "field of view" are complementary. Both terms describe the horizontal portion of scenery visible when looking through binoculars. Imagine standing in the center of a giant pizza; binoculars with an angle of view of 6.3 degrees would show the viewer a 6.3-degree "slice" of the 360-degree pizza when looking outward.
Another way to express the angle of view is the Apparent Angle of View (AAoV). This is roughly calculated by taking the AoV and multiplying it by the magnification. So if the 10x42 binoculars from the earlier example have an AoV of 6.3 degrees, its apparent field of view is 63 degrees. The AAoV is the angle of the magnified field when looking through binoculars; the greater the apparent field of view, the wider the field of view you can see, even at high magnifications. Generally, an AAoV of more than 60 degrees is considered wide-angle. Nikon engineers have developed their own mathematical formula to calculate the AAoV (see below) with more precision, resulting in a slightly smaller angle on average, but most of the optics industry still uses the first formula for consistency and simplicity.
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tan ?' = G x tan ?
Apparent Field of View: 2?'
True Field of View: 2?
Magnification: G
Pro Tip: If you see an angle measurement without a label when buying binoculars, remember that a small number, like 6.3 or 7.8, indicates the actual angle of view, as it refers to the angle at the objective lens. A large number, like 55 or 68, indicates the apparent field of view.
Field of View The field of view, expressed in meters at a distance of 1,000 meters in feet, is the width of the visible area that can be seen without moving the binoculars. In general, the higher the magnification and the smaller the objective, the narrower the field of view.
With some knowledge, you can usually figure out all these options to express how much you can see if you know a little math:
The first thing to know is that 1 degree = 52.5 feet at a distance of 1,000 meters. From there, you can begin calculating.
For example, if you have 8x42 binoculars with an FoV of 360', you can calculate that the AoV is 6.9 degrees (360 ÷ 52.5) and the AAoV is 55.2 degrees (6.9 x 8). By reversing these basic formulas, you can extrapolate any of the other values.
To illustrate the relationship between magnification and FoV: if the binoculars above were instead 10x and the FoV remained the same, the angle of view would stay 6.9 degrees, but the apparent angle would increase to 69 degrees.
Minimum Focusing Distance (Close Focus)
This may seem odd, as the whole idea of binoculars is to view distant things, which is true for most users. However, there are many enthusiasts who use their binoculars for birdwatching or insect observation. Many bird watchers want a close minimum focus distance that lets them see fine details on birds, like wing bars, beak shape, or head markings, while the birds are feeding. A close focus distance of under 3 meters is remarkable for full-size binoculars. As magnification increases, the minimum focusing distance usually also increases. Users interested in a short close focus should consider larger objectives and limit the magnification to around 8x.
Body Styles
This is a kind of catch-all category to discuss design features that pertain more to the shape and function of the optics than to performance.
Open Hinge |
Closed Hinge |
Open or closed hinge refers to the central section that connects the two optical tubes on roof prism binoculars. Normally, the central hinge and focusing mechanism are housed within the body. While this strengthens the hinge and mechanism, the closed bridge prevents your hands from wrapping all the way around. In an open bridge, the focusing mechanism is usually near the eyepieces and a second stabilizing section is toward the objectives, leaving the middle section open. This not only allows for a full wraparound grip but also reduces the overall weight of the optics.
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Focusing
The vast majority of binoculars use a central focus system. The main focusing wheel is located on the bridge between the two eyepieces and moves them symmetrically. In central focusing, many manufacturers include a diopter adjustment wheel on one eyepiece to finely adjust focus according to individual vision requirements. The level of diopter correction is set by each manufacturer, usually by model, and may be on the left or right eye or on both. In some models, the diopter correction is integrated into the central focusing mechanism.
There are two other types of focusing that need to be addressed: individual and focus-free. Individual focusing models eliminate the central focusing mechanism, allowing each eyepiece to focus independently. While this allows for extremely fine and precise focusing, it can be frustrating if the binoculars are shared, and should only be considered if there is one primary user. Many marine and astronomical models use this system. Focus-free binoculars have no focusing mechanisms, relying on your eyes to bring the image into focus, so you can focus on the scenery and enjoy the view. Users with exceptionally poor or weak vision should probably avoid focus-free models, as they can strain the eyes and cause discomfort such as eye strain or headaches.
KONUS Binocular Tornado 7x50 Floating
Pro Tip: If you plan to share your binoculars or use them for different distances, stick to models with central focusing. For astronomy or marine use, individual focusing provides the sharpest views, and you won’t need to adjust focus often since it's set to "infinity" (distant subjects) where focus changes little.
Weatherproof, Waterproof, Fogproof
Many binoculars are not weatherproof; some are waterproof, while others are water- and fogproof. The rating determines under which conditions the optics should or can be used.
No Rating Binoculars that are not weatherproof should not be used in rain or at sea, as moisture can enter the interior of the binoculars. If water enters the optical tubes, it can condense inside the lens ("fogging"), obstructing the view and eventually leading to internal rust and corrosion.
Weatherproof Often, but not always, the optics will have some type of seal – an O-ring or gasket – to prevent moisture, like from general humidity or light mist, from entering the optical tubes. You can use weatherproof binoculars under moist conditions without damage. The air inside the optical tube likely consists of factory air with a low moisture level due to climate control, meaning a new pair of binoculars generally won’t fog up under normal conditions, even if sealed with an O-ring or gasket.
Waterproof These binoculars are sealed with O-rings to prevent moisture entry; however, they may still fog. Depending on design and seals, some waterproof binoculars can be submerged for varying times. Some manufacturers rate their binoculars for limited depths for a limited time, while others follow military standards for much greater depths.
Fogproof Fogging occurs when air inside the optical tubes contains moisture. Moving from a warm cabin to a cold outdoor environment may cause moisture to condense inside the lenses, causing fogging. Fogproof binoculars are filled with gases like nitrogen or argon, or a combination, to prevent fogging. The gas is dry and pressurized inside the optical tubes, keeping the seals and O-rings firmly in place.
One frequently asked question is: "What is the difference between nitrogen and argon?" A quick Google search yields many forum links where people have strong opinions on this topic, often leading to various online arguments. In short, for the majority of people, there is no significant performance difference between the two. Both gases keep moisture out and prevent internal fogging. Delving into the chemistry, argon molecules are larger than nitrogen molecules, which is why some manufacturers believe argon is less likely to leak through the seals, maintaining waterproof and fogproof properties longer. In practical terms, having one of these dry gases in your optics gives you an edge.
Pro Tip: Remember... all fogproof binoculars are waterproof, but NOT all waterproof binoculars are fogproof.
Housing Materials
The housing is the frame of the binoculars around which the entire optics are built.
Aluminum By and large, the most popular material on the market is aluminum – or more precisely, an aluminum alloy. Aluminum is lightweight, strong, affordable, easy to work with, and naturally corrosion-resistant, which is also a bonus.
Magnesium Another metal alloy, magnesium is valued for its high strength-to-weight ratio. All else being equal between two identical binoculars except for the housing material, the magnesium model will be a few ounces lighter. Why does this matter? If you plan to hold the binoculars to your eyes for long periods, lighter optics reduce fatigue. Magnesium is very strong, can withstand rough use, and is corrosion-resistant.
Polycarbonate Polycarbonate is a polymer resin available in various formulas with different properties. Generally, all share traits such as ease of manufacturing, low cost, corrosion resistance, and strength. The main advantage of polycarbonate is its temperature resistance. When using optics in extreme conditions (especially cold), the chassis remains at a neutral temperature – unlike metals, which can become very cold (and will) over time. More importantly, metal expands and contracts with temperature fluctuations, whereas polycarbonate does not.
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